The prominent temples that the Kangra valley, in Himachal Pradesh, is famous for are Jwalamukhi, Brajeshwari, Chintpurni and Naina Devi. There is a major rush of pilgrims throughout the year, especially during the Navratra festival in April and October.
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There
are fascinating legends associated with these shrines, the most
popular of them being that of King Daksh. The story goes that the
arrogant king did not invite Lord Shiva, his son-in-law to a 'yagna',
and consequently his daughter Sati, utterly humiliated, plunged into
the sacrificial fire. Shiva arrived on hearing this, only to find his
beloved half burnt. Enraged he carried her charred body and broke into
the 'tandava nritya', the awesome dance of death. Her charred remains
- tongue, breasts, feet and eyes fell at four places to form the four
pilgrimage sites of Jwalamukhi, Brajeshwari, Chintpurni and Naina Devi.
This temple circuit is one of the most popular ones in North
India.
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The Jwalamukhi
temple is perched on a ridge called Kali dhar. The shrine has a gilt
dome and soaring pinnacles. Inside is a square pit, three feet deep with
a pathway all around. The rock in the middle has a crack, through
which a gas is emitted, and on lighting it the gas bursts out into a
huge flame, the priest keeps applying the flame to the gas - which is
seen as a blessing of the deity. The shrine has no idol as such, the
emanation of the gas is believed to be a manifestation of the goddess
Jwalaji. The nine flames have been named after goddesses - Mahakali,
Unpurna, Chandi, Hinglaj, Bindhya Basni, Maha Lakshmi, Saraswati,
Ambika and Anji Devi. Jwalamukhi is said to be the spot where the
half-burnt tongue of Sati fell, hence the burning flames or 'tongues' of
fire. During the Mughal period, a fervent devotee from Delhi, Dhianu
Bhagat visited the temple, alongwith several others. Emperor Akbar,
his curiousity aroused at such an exodus from his capital, followed
Bhagat. He tried to put the flames out but failed. Later Akbar visited
the temple with Jodha Bai and presented a solid gold umbrella to the
shrine, which can be seen even to this day. The King of Nepal
presented a magnificent bell, which adorns the front hall. Milk and
water is offered to the flames, the 'puja' going on for the whole
day.
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The Brajeshwari Devi
temple, located in the old Kangra township, is said to have been
built over the charred breasts of Sati. This shrine, once renown for
its great wealth, has been plundered relentlessly over the ages. The
first of the plunderers was Mahmud of Ghazni, who looted it in 1009. A
mosque was built on the ruins and a garrison was left behind. 35
years later, the local king regained its possession. The shrine was
repaired and a replica of the idol was enshrined. The temple was
filled with gold, silver and diamonds only to be ransacked again in
1360 by Firoz Tughlaq. Later Emperor Akbar visited the shrine with his
dewan, Todar Mal and restored it to its former grandeur. The temple was
razed to the ground by an earthquake in 1905, but a new one came up
the very same year, thanks to the Kangra Restoration Committee.
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The Naina Devi
temple is located atop a hill, commanding an awesome view of the
Punjab plains on one side and the Gobind Sagar lake on the other. This
is the spot where Sati's eyes - nain - are believed to have fallen.
Some devotees cover the last few miles of the climb up crawling, this
method is called 'sashtang dandvata'. The puja is performed by thirty
priests. The temple is also frequented by Sikhs. Guru Gobind Singh is
believed to have spent some days here.
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The Chintpurni temple
stands on the spot where the charred feet of Sati fell. The 'Pindi'
or the stone hall symbolises her feet. The Chintpurni 'mantra' is very
popular with devotees. In recent years the temple has been renovated
with the help of major donations from devotees all over the country.
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